Before we left for Japan, I told Mariam that for this time around, I had a tiny little wish: to connect with the locals.

Often, when travelling in big groups, you are part of a tribe and lose the freedom to be just yourself. Happened to me too many times. You adopt group behaviours, and need to follow programs. Or consensus. That’s how it is.

Once in a while, it’s nice to be nobody: small, tiny, less noise. Approachable. 

On our last night in Ito, we googled and found a sushi place.

It had good ratings and closes at 9.58 pm. We decided to give it a try. It was in a neighbourhood called Yoshida. 

It was already 7pm when we arrived; sunset was around 5pm in autumn. We parked in front of the restaurant that almost looked like a house. Seemed quiet. We slid the door open and was greeted with welcoming greetings. It was wonderfully warm.

There were two Japanese couples sitting at the L-shaped sushi table, probably in their 60s. We were lucky, there were two seats left at the far end. Just for us.

We sat. No one there speaks English.

The menu was also in Japanese, handwritten and unrecognisable by Google Translate.

The chef handed me a paper coaster. By the look of it he asked me to draw a face. I looked around, and found a stack of them to my right, hand drawn faces by previous guests.

Then I understood: he made guests draw while he prepared their meals. Now this is going to be something.

I took a ball pen and drew the chef’s face. He was preparing our sushi, speaking to other guests, and in between, glancing at my drawing. Before I was even done, his wife was already excited. Sketching his face was easy, but took me three failed attempts for the wife. She sulked hilariously. Maybe I’ve drawn her too old. Well, I’m never good at portraits. Or age.

The other two couples finished their meals, and left.

Just us and the sushi chef with his wife, who was taking orders and managing tables. But since there was no one else, they took the time to entertain us.

They were somehow impressed with my sketching. I told them I could sketch all night after my third failed attempt on the wife’s portrait. I asked for their names to write on the coaster. Chef’s name is Yuuzo-san. Wife’s name Shigoku-san.

Mariam showed them my instagram. They asked if I’m a real doctor. Told them I’m a fake one, and really bad at that.

Before we left, Shigeko-san asked about our family. We told there’s six of us. She then wrapped us souvenirs: Fish-shaped chopstick rest that was made of ceramic. She made it herself. Hand-made. Different sizes.

I pointed at the peculiar closing time sign at the board. “Why 9.58pm?,” I asked. Yuuzo-san answered, “Why not?” We laughed.

I then asked for the bill. It was time to leave. They sent us out to the car. We bowed and said goodbyes.

My wish was granted.

I hope to come back here again. And hopefully with more vocabs under my tuna belly belt. 

I want to see if my sketch is still where Yuuzo-san carefully put.

At the top shelf.

Well, why not?